Unisex Coat Zero Waste Sewing Pattern PDF, Birgitta Helmersson

The Zero Waste Coat is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. The pattern also includes tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add one. Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern does not require the printing of large pattern pieces, instead, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and templates.

Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and includes instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. You will receive a link to download the digital files after purchase. 

Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, and the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however, if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.

Recommended Fabric: Ideal in a mid-heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.

Sizing: This is a one-size pattern which fits the size range EU 36 - 44. Please see the FIND YOUR SIZE tab for more detailed information.

Recommended fabric width: 145 – 160 cm / 57 – 63 inches

Yardage required: 

Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards) 

Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)

You will need:

• Bias tape or binding. Approx 3 metres / 118 inches. This can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen.
• Buttons x 3. Recommended size 2 - 2.5cm / ¾ – 1 inch.
• Iron on fusing, approx 25cm / 10 inch. Only required if you are using a lighter weight fabric and is used to fuse the inside of the collar and front facings.
• Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem. The size of the elastic is determined by how much you want to bring in the hem.
• Lining. This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one if you want to for some extra warmth. More info in the booklet on this. 

Recommended Tools: Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.

Techniques used: Button holes, patch pockets, binding seams (optional), attaching a collar, hand sewing (optional).

PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. 

We love working with the Zero Waste method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns: Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!